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The Textile Industry in Connecticut:

Stages of Textile Processing

Taking any raw material such as cotton, silk, or wool and transforming it into a woven, dyed or patterned garment requires many different steps. Although most of the photographs in this section specifically address the process involved in the production of silk, they still relate to the processes involved in creating the majority of textiles produced in Connecticut.

Weighing and Sorting Raw Silk Skeins, Cheney BrothersRaw Silk Skeins, Cheney Brothers
Weighing and Sorting
Raw Silk Skeins, Cheney Brothers
Manchester, ca. 1910s
Photo CD: 3153
File: Img0019.pcd

< Originally Connecticut silk manufacturers raised their own silkworms and harvested the raw silk. When the industry grew to a large scale however this process was financially unsuccessful and manufacturers started to import raw silk from other places. All textile processing begins with some sort of raw material whether it is silk, cotton, wool, or another fiber.

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Woman at Roving Frame
Woman at Roving Frame,
Cheney Brothers
Manchester, ca. 1920
Photo CD: 315
3 File: Img0084.pcd

< To manufacture cloth, the raw silk needed to be spun into a fine thread. A process that had originally been done on a spinning wheel became quicker when roving frames were developed. Other textiles such as cotton and wool also needed to be spun into thread, and then woven into cloth on large looms.

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Looms in Operation
Looms in Operation,
Wauregan-Quinebaug Company
Wauregan, 1920-1940
Photo CD: 1451
File: Img0081.pcd

< Power looms were developed in the mid-19th century. They greatly reduced the time and number of workers needed to produce woven materials. Most looms created a plain weave but others were capable of weaving a variety of intricate patterns such as a jacquard weave, herringbone and others.

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Bleaching Vats, Cheney Brothers
Bleaching Vats, Cheney Brothers
Manchester, ca. 1920
Photo CD: 3153
File: Img0083.pcd

< Most textiles including silk, wool, cotton and linen are often off-white or unevenly colored when originally woven into cloth. After weaving, the cloth first needed to be bleached to pure white so a pattern could be added or so that the cloth would dye evenly.

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Printing Cloth, Cheney Brothers
Printing Cloth, Cheney Brothers
Manchester, ca. 1930
Photo CD: 0536
File: Img0074.pcd

< Over time, different processes were used for printing cloth. This process shown here was one of the latest to be developed. It was done with the use of a roller press that would transfer the pattern onto the fabric. Patterns could be added to most types of finished cloth.

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Link to other essays in this Journey:

>> Introduction: The Textile Industry in Connecticut
>>
Early History of Textiles in Connecticut
>> Diversity of Textiles
>> Child Labor
>> Immigrant Workers
>> Housing for Factory Workers

>> Guideposts
>> Suggestions for further reading